CELEBRATING INTERNATIONAL SURFING DAY WITH FELICITY PALMATEER
What does surfing mean to you?
Surfing is my escape, my meditation, my motivator, and an occasional source of frustration. It dictates where I live and where I go, it's the greatest bond I have between my father and me, it's lead me to love and teaches me to give back. It's awesome.
What was special about this session?
This was my first session back on the Gold Coast after travelling for a month. While I was away, Autumn became Winter, yet it's still warm enough to wear bikinis. Crazy! This was also the first time riding this board - which I’ve since fallen in love with.
How deep is the connection you feel with the ocean?
Deep, like a lifelong love story.
Do you remember the first board you ever rode or bought?
The first board I ever tried was one of my Dad’s old fiberglass boards. I was hooked immediately. When I got better, I got my first custom board. I still have it today, My mum and I drew some art on it. That's special!
Choose three places to surf anywhere in the world. Where would they be and why?
Tahiti - One of the most beautiful places in the world, clearest, cleanest water, amazing waves and so green.
Maldives - Perfect balance between a surf trip and a holiday.
Western Australia - it’s home for me. I have some of the best memories growing up surfing around that area.
What place do women have in competitive surfing?
If you're a young girl and you want to compete, then I recommend joining a local boardriders club. They can be great fun and help you get the hang of surfing a heat, as well as dealing with nerves (which is pretty common!). Also, I recommend seeking the advice of older surfers, someone you trust and can keep it fun while sharing some good advice!
Is it ever too late to learn to surf?
No way! why would it be? ha ha - get out there!
All imagery by @pixjj / firstname.lastname@example.org