loved by the people hated by the law
had the sickest day yesterday...
the hurricane got here, there was pretty decent swell. i mean it was only like 4 to 5 foot but the people here have never seen it that big. the lifeguards started closing all the beaches to swimming and surfing and cops were saying you will be arrested in you go in even ankle deep. there was the sickest 5 foot wedges close to the shore and pits and nobody out but there were hundreds on people on the beach freakin on the swell. so we thought CENSORED it ill get arrested to surf that.
so we did the full sneak attack jumped out of the car in our wetsuits and jumped of the rocks on the other end of the beach. as we were going out there were lifeguards and cops whistling and yelling trying to stop us but we just kept going laughing. as soon as we rode the first wave the crowd went absolutely nuts i mean like 100s of people cheering and screaming on the beach. you would do the worst air of your life and the crowd would go bananas. we would get a barrell come out and claim it to the crowd and they would go mad. it was the raddest thing. cops trying to arrest our Filmer's and get us in. so we surfed like this for about 2 hours by ourselves, 3 guys. then just stayed out for 4 hours until more surfers came out and people started swimming and when we came in they would never find us in the crowd it was awesome. walking up the beach everyone was so stoked shaking our hands and taking photos. we were the robin hoods of surfing. one of the best sessions i've ever had.