• Occ-Cast Episode 2 featuring Kelly Slater

In the second Occ-Cast, Occy sits down in Tahiti with the newly crowned Billabong Pro Tahiti 2016 champion, Kelly Slater. Occy and Kelly talk about the training and diet that have kept Kelly at the top of surfing, the process of building a wave pool and surfing in the 2020 Olympics.

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Full audio transcript -


0:03ok so welcome to the outcasts are lucky enough to be in Tahiti and have Kelly

0:18side beside me

0:19the one and only Thank You Kelly for joining yeah I could see where i could

0:22see to you know I feel hated the interview

0:25no no pressure did you get a good excuse it was a good little pressure on 84 sure

0:31yeah the other side thank you but I didn't know beforehand you know

0:34yesterday and then we happen to see each other in the water I don't think we do

0:38yeah I didn't notice thanks so much that's so cool you first thing I'm gonna

0:43speak up because i wasn't over the yesterday but they're at the kuranda by

0:47you're watching the USA vs and I'll McGregor yeah and I'm and the boys he'd

0:54be insulted if you didn't know his name

0:56really oh yeah and I did not know that your purple belt in jujitsu

1:01I didn't know that either now you know that's what they say but no you're not

1:05no that's what L said no it's not sure no job no it's not gonna watch I'll sit

1:10me out

1:11goodness but you do a little bit of an idea a little bit you know i enjoy i

1:15followed a lot i watch a lot I got a lot of friends to do it and yeah I trained

1:19quite a bit here and there but I've ever trained continually enough to get

1:24through bit of his and yeah so yeah yeah well um so you won yesterday look really

1:32confident that they're looking for a good result here

1:35no no no that likes is you right away yeah you're gonna sit in silence of you

1:41can chat

1:41no I you know what though I hadn't served I served i basically have a

1:47surface j-bay something

1:49yeah I served one day in like one foot waves in New York just briefly with a

1:54couple short surface about 2-3 weeks ago we feel like the day after i left Africa

2:00yep and then

2:01I had to sort of half sessions in Florida about a week and a half two

2:05weeks ago and said it and I just haven't served a i went to california for a few

2:10days had some work stuff to do and then I was gonna try and surf the waves

2:14actually got nice two days ago and I believe in there but I didn't have time

2:17in the morning we're packing this stuff's okay i didn't get any time to

2:20really work on anything but I meant Russell is pretty different to you know

2:24I trust I go right and it's mine i didn't check my god laughing at

2:28berlinale I know literally that like blindfolded like that you often done so

2:33far in between

2:34yeah i'll go contestant yeah I you know I just for whatever reason you know i'm

2:40not motivated just save it until I have a heat and then it kind of wakes me up

2:43and it does yeah but i mean i don't think you can really pull that off

2:46element at a way where you're just you know it's about the maneuvers in the

2:51whole flow you know you have to be on your game with theirs in the turns and

2:54your timing everything perfect but in barrels I think you know it's it is like

2:59walking like riding a bike yes

3:00yeah it's a it's not too hard to mean it's more about reading the lineup that

3:05is about the surfing e at that point right now and then when it comes to the

3:09barrel right into its its small technical things in the barrel and it's

3:13how great you want to get how deep you want to get the two but you know that's

3:16that is taking second nature

3:17yeah it must be like it kind of works that doesn't because if you're not nylon

3:22your body surfing like eight hours a day you can serve the longer like yeah

3:26longevity has been incredible

3:28well i've i've been blessed with longevity without having too many bad

3:32injuries that but I am I am carrying a pretty serious back problem which I have

3:37been for a number of years now and you know I'm just kind of under-five been in

3:42denial of it or pretending it's not as bad as it what it is or whatever but i

3:45got i have quite a lot of days I don't actually surf because my backer

3:48Constitution yeah so little bit of an MRC interesting email since about $TIME

3:53a.m. i yeah is it louder all its lower back yeah

3:57you have it the sign mornings heart i got scoliosis just pretty badly on my

4:00back and and so I got a real imbalance from short on one side and long and the

4:06other and then in upper middle back it kind of goes the opposite i got this big

4:09sort of hurting my back so you know and because surfing you're so it's so

4:15asymmetrical you know you're just going one way one foot forward and

4:18everything's you know the muscle use and everything or so imbalanced really so it

4:24saturates curve it does and what about the Gulf does not and I don't think that

4:29this operation has been hell yeah I didn't help at all

4:32ok i try to swing the other way a little bit you didn't actually can hit the ball

4:34left hand you can

4:35wow she was and still surfing favorite left-handed surfing goofy goofy here and

4:43there you know what I just gonna straighten up you reckon if you can see

4:46it could it could I actually think it's really good process for your brain

4:50because you have to think um ok you i feel backwards okay what I do

4:55okay no that's how I move those muscles you know I think it's a good exercise

4:58for the brain

4:59in fact i want to taik about like six weeks or two months and and and film the

5:05process of actually only serving to be footwell and see how quickly or slowly i

5:11would advance so that i may not catch away regular foot for like a couple more

5:15than that because yeah and yeah i was talking to she wasn't talking to you

5:21razy talking to somebody other day about that about that about well about surfing

5:25goofy foot yeah and how you know your whole life you you you learn to wipe out

5:30and and I was just talking about how i don't i don't get hurt very often when I

5:34wipeout night I understand how the wave moves and and I've been able to put

5:37myself in the right place

5:39you know in and fight at the right time to relax the right time you know so I I

5:42know where to get but that's only when i fall regular foot i finally fall goofy

5:46foot in front

5:47everything's backwards and I can't get my being a regular full-time used to

5:51this move right yeah and I can swim to where I want to be goofy foot i fall and

5:55I have the worst wipeout zone like to fellate and you don't know we've always

5:58coming idea what's going on there

6:00it's so bizarre

6:01guys it is it totally different awareness yeah I love daughter's age I

6:05was China but yeah when you guys will get another one day there he was ripping

6:10hi lucky won that contest in the mailbox yeah yeah I not this year on to see

6:15another charge one this year I did you win the last week yeah okay Shane last

6:19year he did ya get beat him in that I think Shane won the twin fin maybe or

6:23the heart monitor that one are the overall times overall total yeah you

6:27still keeping contact with shine at least yah chains son jackson my god zone

6:32ok and Kalani and Lisa hang out quite a bit and yes we're around each other a

6:38lot kill and I was going to ask you how things again with Kalani sitting right

6:41there so i can ask your next to get it

6:44yeah you guys have been together for ages yeah like a long time matter now

6:48thinking of kids yet

6:51well we've thought about this yeah baby I'm just 50 do both right there hey

6:57let's go well hit you know it's because you eat you're in the process again i am

7:02yes yes I'm gonna have another bar at the tender age of 50

7:05yeah wow yeah yeah heard one yeah one yeah I'm gonna kill you while you was

7:14part time you did have a stepson steps onto rainer yeah oh yeah right i heard

7:18from radar not long ago did ya

7:20Rayna actually he's left us know he's been in the snow for like ten years all

7:23year round so it's been talking australia for Canada and now he's over

7:26it and he's gonna call ya told me he was gonna get back into surfing here near so

7:32he's a good boy he's still my stepson

7:33yep the air what about your wife porn so interested in that you don't talk

7:39there's no there's no laughs talk I'm not I'm not I'm not I'm not just really

7:43hard like yeah but what kind is it like fresh water the water so different board

7:50is better no same know that's a myth

7:53yes the total myth because because i remember we well skin more turn thick

7:59yeah you know it's all about planning so what you up to playing experience has

8:04nothing to with buoyancy it's just left

8:06yeah so you know once you catch it once you are done paddling it is only have

8:11speed speed is what creator lifted me and

8:14you're you're you're playing right and that wife gives you a lot of space yeah

8:17there's plenty of speed and expanded so you know buoyancy only matters if you're

8:22in a way where you're having to generate your own speed and it's completely like

8:25a mushball you know right like huntington in between the outside the

8:29inside it right you want some buoyancy yeah you're bored because you are

8:32sinking so it's only at a speed that you're not up on a plane on your board

8:36is when it would make a difference but that young came and served and he's the

8:39first thing he said straightaway was I there's no difference because if not

8:43they're gonna be huge difference in that you don't feel different all this room

8:46remember we had that contested allentown pennsylvania

8:49yeah that was like five inches and yeah well that would definitely have buoyancy

8:54is yes for like an epoxy was better i think we all kind of had them in yeah it

8:59and that was a weird one right because it turned out like 13 waves or 50

9:02anyways we'll so close together and I heard like the second wave and like the

9:0513th wave that way there's anything

9:07yeah so that is by that last way there would be some current going through

9:10something that would tom carroll was telling me yeah

9:13did Tom win it i think i think someone yeah and like Derek there exactly yeah i

9:17got their orders but it was funny because the water was like watching over

9:20the side and the light was feeling because they weren't like a heavy

9:22drought know a lot you can all right we can't be doing that no way but yes that

9:27that would that actually reminds me i don't know if that was the same swing

9:31that came through the East Coast and you surfed you serve down in deerfield beach

9:35or somewhere and you got third

9:37I think Shawn Thompson one more animals maybe got second yep

9:40without this is that region eh no that was down in Florida actually and it

9:46won't warlord yeah somewhere south of Sebastian was warm and that we had a

9:50nice little waves I've been swallowed something that's what you're getting and

9:54whatever and yeah yeah yeah so that was one of the first times I actually I

9:59thought well I thought I was gonna get to see you sir if I didn't come down and

10:02you didn't check it out but I heard that you had gotten third you know back then

10:05it was we didn't have cellphones you know so it wasn't like you could hear

10:09straight away it was like yeah you know you're here maybe a day later two days

10:13later what happened because somebody was there all get suited where I you don't

10:17like to have my coffee granules was sort of like the mythical Florida guy who

10:20likes you know it

10:22he was an underrated guy and he had a big result there

10:25yeah speaking of toppings and hurricanes I was just recently in Japan when the

10:29well the Olympics got accepted announcer laughing yeah I you obtain on that you

10:36think like i'm kinda you know I middle-of-the-road on and to be honest I

10:40actually good and bad i mean yeah i don't know if i see you so much bad but

10:43i just see like I I don't have much of an opinion I I could I could make an

10:49argument for either side

10:51no you know I think the best surfer is determined by a great number of

10:56different waves and sizes of in conditions and you know you don't have

11:00that in one contest almost ever

11:02well no unless it's like pumping yeah i'm going to maine lot but you know that

11:07it does bring in the argument of is a way for viable would that bring out the

11:12best of luck in your life full well it would bring out everyone getting to ride

11:16the same wave

11:17yeah so in that condition whatever that condition yeah it was yeah it would be

11:22but you could you know what the way forward consistent you know same playing

11:26field over and over like a skate ramp or whatever you can really break down each

11:31aspect of the surfing night because you could really critique everybody's turned

11:36you know we're gonna we're gonna take the one best turn and judge that we're

11:38going to take the one best Aaron judge then we're gonna take the best tube and

11:41judge that all these different things and then and then maybe the best rides

11:45over also the being I think the format would change

11:47yeah you know I mean I have thought a lot about this not necessarily just

11:50recently but I thought a lot about it free

11:52the 10-12 years we've been working on the wave yeah sure thought like Sal

11:56would you been working on that for ya

11:58well let you know how would you be able to judge and it would it would change it

12:02would definitely change certain aspects of how you look in a judge away you know

12:07in the ocean there's a you can argue it there's luck you can argue there's an

12:12art to figuring out and find the best wave might be sneaky inside barrel that

12:16you can somebody didn't see it might be a bigger outside one somebody else is

12:19scared of I mean there's all those kind of variables and you know the judging

12:24plays into the type of wave it is too and I think they're there can often

12:30times you know in a barrel wave-like out here there's a lot of things that maybe

12:34can't be seen from the front

12:35yeah so I think it brings in that sort of that debate about how would you judge


12:42how many camera angles would there be you know for sure you know and how would

12:45you work to formats but you know Japan can have great ways and I'm gonna be

12:49tricky thing I'm really terrible at yeah that would suck for the United would be

12:54bad you're surfing yeah so is there any chance that they could build like your

12:57wife will there and I mean they got four years we got four years yeah but I would

13:01think that they would have to have the pool maybe two years out at least a year

13:06out just to make sure there's no kinks in the thing at all but you know you're

13:11dealing with software and energy and I was kind enough and you know is the

13:16sky's the limit for that like I mean can you make it

13:18seriously why just like that like big oh yeah you mean it just comes down to

13:22money and money

13:23yeah and spice yeah you need a good build like a 6-foot groaning kara barrel

13:28you could do it

13:29yeah yeah yeah you could I mean it's not hard you can we know how to make this

13:33well yeah it's a it's you know how do you make the bottom and the right angle

13:38of peeling and how do you build sections and that's all the evolution of where

13:42you would go with with with where it's at now is like building in sections that

13:46appeal to everyone you know not just like a one-time maneuver one type of

13:50surfer who likes it so you know how do you how do you make them this sort of

13:56wave and bottom that fit everyone's speed and style of surfing and you know

14:00that that's fair enough for everyone to if you're talking to competitively but

14:03if you're just having fun

14:04you know you want to think of all those aspects and when you're designing it

14:08how do I make this fun for everyone you know because it the average person

14:12surfing it's not gonna be like a high-level guy

14:14yeah they're gonna be just you know your everyday kind of surfer the cruises and

14:18maybe it didn't really ride the barrel that great and they don't smash the lip

14:22and two errors you know they just kind of cruising to cutbacks and have fun and

14:25want to feel the speed you know so you got to take that all into account

14:30official because people like there will be mine used I guess I like intermediate

14:34kind of surface one who organizes yeah i think probably always gonna be there

14:38you're busy i couldn't believe I'm the look on your face was that the first

14:42time you have a sore right well i went in person yeah and i had seen I was in

14:46Fiji and flew from Fiji last December

14:48to the straight to the pool to the property and we we got there late at

14:54night and went to sleep and it was I had been seeing videos pictures and videos

14:59for about three days ahead of time like as the way was just starting to break

15:03like because they you know the Machine and it's an expensive piece of machinery

15:08and equipment state-of-the-art and when all said and done now we have you know a

15:13software that is very simple and an interface it's really easy to use I mean

15:18you know for a guy for the couple of people who know how to use it they had

15:23actually go there by themselves and turn the wave on to go ride it come back and

15:27reset it and you know there's that whole aspect let me write it but getting to

15:32that point

15:33like I said it's been years and years and but we had you know you really have

15:38to it's like breaking an engine you know not only do they have that aspect but

15:42you gotta figure out the software in the speed and the amount of energy and you

15:46got it you know certain measurements you have to be aware of and stuff so it's

15:50not like you just turn on and we're going you know so it's like it's when

15:55it's getting close it it's a weeks-long process that we had and we're still

15:59working through that to be honest just and just so we know everything about

16:03what we have but yeah I showed up that morning and that would we got there

16:08until like like we got there with the sleep and yeah I really couldn't sleep

16:12because I was like man tomorrow is it different things like my life changes

16:15kind i knew i knew some in some way my life was going to change the next day

16:19about your life and suffering to hear but I was just like I don't know what

16:24I'm getting into here i just i was so excited like more than Christmas yeah

16:28and I mean I was like freaking five-year-old christmas i was just like

16:33get us that but it was so cold it was called it was holed I mean it was like

16:39it was like close to freezing in the morning and the air and the water was

16:43like you know water was a somewhere between 49 and 51 degrees Fahrenheit so

16:48you're talking like a 10 degrees or whatever basically associates not first

16:54yeah that's like 10

16:56yeah nine or ten while

16:57is cold and so I wasn't in a rush to jump in the water but I was in a rush to

17:03see it was a funny little thing and they had this whole film crew so they were

17:08trying to make that go easy but not let me know they were filming me you know i

17:11mean so they were trying to get the whole thing set up and like okay so to

17:15get there and watching and everyone pulled back while I watched it was like

17:19you know we had try 30 people there's something

17:21yeah but everyone kind of move back and let me go and I was just like so

17:24mesmerized by this thing that I was almost crying i was using what am i

17:28lookin at ya think i'm looking at Sandspit we can get we got it if it's

17:32unbelievably glass the area was like it looks fake and i started coming at me

17:37and I it to me I felt like it was a monster really was a loch ness monster

17:41and it was just like I couldn't believe what I was seeing I was like look at it

17:45there's no way that what I'm seeing is real and everyone who has watched that

17:49footage every single person says the same thing like your face the look on

17:54your face I'm like that's a look at everybody has an AC at the first time

17:57when you first get there you see the thing you you just can't you can't soak

18:01it up you can process what you're seeing

18:04yeah yeah that's cycle you've got to be the most adverse effect the world by

18:10Myles I mean you want the 80 part numerous numerous storms arm when you'd

18:16do like stop the actual wsl tour any interesting doing big life events

18:23um yeah I'd like to do a couple i mean i've come close to doing a couple i was

18:26going to do jaws last year

18:28yeah and I mean God dark scary as hell didn't but I funny enough you know the

18:37guy from Florida who got invited didn't go because he was surfing wave pool that


18:41seriously yeah there's some kind of sick joke in that I know I you missed the

18:45area miss the jaws event the surface that way before yeah but that was the

18:49day before actually it was december forth i believe research the pool and

18:53that was on December fifth or and it was december $YEAR 15 jobs diff number 6 i'm

18:56like that so I had served all day and we're going to serve the whole next day

18:59but then we decided we're gonna shut down and do more work on the on the lake

19:04and everything and and the machinery so I was basically at and I was beat I mean

19:09I had served

19:10i surf beach

19:11like I think I got 26 waves that day did yeah and and how many in the parliament

19:17yeah you know it on the way that day I think I'd like you 23-26 waves and you

19:23know a whole wave grows like 45-1 doesnt sit well yeah you can go longer even

19:27actually but you no longer the waves it's just long to your legs are fried me

19:33and how many minutes in between the wife can you do well often we we didn't make

19:42it go both ways like we didn't make we didn't design it to work and send a wave

19:46left and another right yet

19:47yeah you know I had we done that it could be almost immediate almost made it

19:52yeah but because you've got the water and one and know that that's the thing

19:56because we didn't put in like the water dampeners and stuff so you do have this

20:00sort of sloshing always gonna wait for it to settle

20:02ya gotta wait for it wait for it several button you if you're riding by yourself

20:07you couldn't you couldn't turn around and ride away of that quickly because

20:11your legs hurt that you hate so yeah I mean sometimes when I'm riding at all

20:16usually if I want to ride the barrel

20:18yeah i'll just i'll wait till my legs are totally fine and the water is

20:22completely glassy and i'll just go again

20:24yeah then you know i'm and and you know some days that I've been there I've only

20:28written like three waves in the whole day so I'm just like I'm flying in my

20:31legs are sore

20:32you know you know you know because i like when the wave slower you do more

20:35turns when the weight faster you just getting barreled you don't bring your

20:38legs so much so yeah and you get golden tickets arm

20:41well you got to enter the pricey I get online you don't actually I don't you

20:46know your wheelchair you get to come anytime you want to see ya know why are

20:50they love to bring j-boy boys is for also that just might he's got one voice

20:58is for our servers are good

21:01unbelievable it's so hard for me i'm in a funny position you know because i I

21:05really don't think i want to say yes to everybody

21:07yeah fact I got a group of like 22 my friends together we're going to go for

21:12two or three days

21:13ok and then all go surf together he and I had to tell him we couldn't really it

21:20was hard because we had the dates like locked-in and then we decided to shut

21:25down and do some more work on all gonna end so i had to tell know and it was

21:29like I was trying to take a trip like i kept getting these days and I ok hard

21:32date is

21:33yeah you know in june or whatever I and then I had to do is you guys I and like

21:38all my friends had already bought tickets from Hawaii to come on man whose

21:43side but uh yeah I mean and you know it's not my personal property eat I mean

21:50I'm on a part-owner in the whole deal obviously but yeah but I you know

21:54there's other people yeah sure that there and you know we just a with

22:00something like this it's a you know you wouldn't let everyone go drive your

22:04Ferrari you know you and you don't and maybe you would

22:10yeah but you're pragati veyron you know it yeah you might just not let everybody

22:16come straightaway and drive the things so it's you know we gotta know what we

22:20have and how it works and then what you know that you got to think about all the

22:23safety precautions and how many people can access it at one time and and you

22:29know how it functions to everyone's enjoying themselves and there's enough

22:32space for everybody but but you know privacy at the same time that you know

22:36there's a lot of things but you know this will always be our prototype

22:40yeah okay so being a prototype we will we'll probably do a lot of work on it

22:47over the years and a similar-looking program study and just studying studying

22:51to do

22:52yeah it's so cool so moving on from you pull like I love the way they've got a

22:58place like pretty much everywhere Hawaii really are

23:00yeah America yeah um let me go

23:03no no my friends got a place around the point is there is something that you

23:08down I'm actually they're almost as much as he is URI I mean spending a month

23:11they're nice but we are you

23:13maybe six weeks and I spent two weeks so yeah so he's not that very much

23:17yeah but uh not that's the thing you notice that our life is so nomadic and

23:23your life is fun but it's I think I made that decision really early on in my life

23:28probably was in my teens right about about 20 that I just want man this is so


23:32yeah you could you can't get enough of this stuff it's not a routine god no not

23:38a routine guy contractual almost don't know what to do when I have to stay in

23:42one place and you don't speak not really know because I mean I don't have time

23:46enough things to fill up my time but yeah but uh I don't get a doll like I'm

23:51sure you do or make those or whatever you were more grounded once a lot more

23:54money i like it i mean i am everything kind of when i'm high i mislike drop the

23:59kids off at school have a surf training and then I've got my favorite shot TV

24:03show in the afternoon i got the new podcast news and I can do what I'm doing

24:08network all the time I like a Food Network back over there that's clinical

24:11tests on my next question I'll is your diet going utilize your dog is

24:14incredible it's pretty good i mean you know I'm not like crazy crazy

24:19over-the-top about it yeah but you know I i am if I start getting my kind of

24:25loose with my diet and like started eating some fried foods or you didn't

24:29exist that

24:30yeah I know and then you know and then I and then I'm like okay come on let's

24:33settle down and I just find when I want to eat too many too much food too many

24:38foods that I don't feel as good

24:40yeah and my body is not functioning as well my system is not working as well i

24:45mean i'd i would sort of my question for you how's your diet like you know what

24:48you're doing good yeah less like like 15 Kayla's always be glad he was elected

24:53what you have

24:53well you have historically been able to fluctuate and then take weight off like

24:57yeah like ready we're like an exaggerated sunny it's sunny it's a girl

25:02I call this one is big but it's like a shockingly he just left with the amount

25:05that you don't see I cut out everything like all red rice sugar everything I am

25:11I used to love like potato chips but I almonds because like I know you love

25:16armin 0 comments instead of potato chips now so that's everything they are feel

25:21so much better

25:21I've been training with them that going on that trains me yeah

25:25and he's been really good for me kind of got me on that diet and I was actually

25:29he's like you're gonna do this I'm like really I couldn't say it is not not

25:32you're gonna do it one of my good friends you know he had an extra 25 30

25:37pounds on it and he's not a big guy you know as is he

25:40me and him would probably be similar little talk to me so you may be five or

25:44ten pounds more than me and that is sort of like slim weight and he all well he

25:52started working out and stuff but he really changed

25:54did the same thing cut out all the white flour cut out all the sugars got the

25:58gluten no he got really all about it and he started like carrying chooses to work

26:03with a cooler and like it hehe dropped 25 30 pounds i did quickly yeah yeah

26:09yeah and and feels way better than looks way better way happier what I mean I

26:14just get there's a thing you know there's there's a there's obviously like

26:18a a generation of massively obese people in American and unfortunately people who

26:23tend to follow the American diet that they call it sad standard American diet

26:28ok it's just terrible it's it's low-fat it's a high carbs its high calories it's

26:34basically hi process terrible you know Janet sensory the rocks as a model

26:40doesn't yeah it's just modified food it's not it's not natural creation and

26:44and you know i think that the mornin close to natural foods raw you can eat

26:50and with fewer foods per meal the easier your body processes things you know i

26:55mean it when I've gone through periods where I'm really into it it's like I

27:00want food to mind when i'm not making my proteins and carbs

27:03yeah I want to just eat as as streamlined as I possibly can and you

27:10know we're so used to in our diets to macronutrients right was like a big for

27:14the chicken or steak or fish put potatoes or whatever but you got to

27:19think about the micronutrients and the chlorella and spirulina is and yes I

27:23you're supplementing and highlights really no I mean I really think that

27:28that's been a huge part of my love being able to have longevity ax and I see

27:35people you know we're going to say though about like where this

27:38it's--at now I I'm so inspired my fault there's people i follow online that have

27:43just lost tremendous amount of weight yeah you know the guy from Australia

27:46that I follow online

27:47yeah from the gold coast rides his bike and he lost like 300 pounds in a year or

27:53something like that crazy and you keep it off

27:56yeah he did and he's riding spike and he's all about his diet soda and it but

28:01I get so inspired by those people you know I mean obviously gets fired by the

28:04Michael Phelps the world stuff yeah i was gonna ask you know that the

28:07certified with your model Phelps how amazing was here he's incredible

28:11he's got a believable but I I mean just it doesn't have too many ways but

28:14especially you have a general a person who's got a challenge you know it could

28:17be getting himself out of like an abusive relationship that could be you

28:22know stopping drug that can be in losing weight didn't you don't have to go set

28:27the world on fire and do something no one's ever done to inspire people in

28:31yeah it's like a little snowball thing I said yeah get you like yet inch into it

28:36and you feel good and then you like actually you can feel good

28:39yeah and then it's no balls from there yeah I travel I really I do

28:43I've done a couple master cleanses before yeah matter if you know the

28:46Master Cleanse but just like the lemonade where you just it's lemon maple

28:49syrup and and in water with cayenne pepper and he'll need well I I've done

28:55it for 10 days my longest and that's it no food no food and no you take some

29:02other supplements you do something like what you drink like a leader of salt

29:05water hot salt water in the morning to flush your system allen and what do you

29:10feel terrible after today you all just like be talking so hard yeah but then

29:14you feel amazing after 34 days you can start getting clearer like your vision

29:18feels better and you hear it I don't know everything in your sinuses clear up

29:21my new anyways i'm pretty bad trying to see them but I wanted there is one time

29:25I wanted to do and kept talking to trevore any about it

29:28yeah and I kept going to do it over to do it I'm gonna do a number two and he

29:31started and he got like 3 40 that I mean I was in the states and he was an

29:34Australian and talking goes you're never going to start this thing I you really

29:38like to start today and I just said that started that day and then I went for

29:44like 10 days i only had about two weeks between contest yeah and you know you

29:48need to try to get back in years

29:50yeah you know

29:50get that energy food going again after but I did it for i think i had nine or

29:55ten days I did it but I accelerated I wanted to do 14 days but I accelerated

30:00it by taking more of like the smooth move tea is that clear everything how he

30:05and some of the supplementing you do along with it but man you feel good

30:10after and the first piece of food you eat after 10 days on my god

30:14strangely I I came off a one I did a I did like a five or six day water fast

30:19one and I came off it by eating a date and it was the I think it was the best

30:24thing I've ever in my whole life was like sugar and it was a newbie just was

30:27like the best bite of food and the one thing is after you do after you abstain

30:33from food for for a long period of time you just respect the food way my own way

30:38more you know you you don't want to put something bad your body because that's

30:41the pain you went through

30:43yeah you know because you're eating that crap you know you got to go through this

30:46kind of like rebirthing of yourself to get yourself back and say you know makes

30:52it inspires you personally don't want to eat better and you know share that

30:56experience with other people

30:57yeah but from from Trevor jumping on doing that Kevin the Iron Man legend

31:01Yeah Yeah right word from Trevor doing that fast and then I did it and then

31:05whole bunch of like 20 or 30 other people i did it because of that you know

31:09because just like you said that snowball and when somebody gets on something you

31:13start sharing it around people

31:14what's going on with you look really clear in your eyes and yeah yeah


31:18Supergirl well I won't keep you from much longer but the million-dollar

31:21question his retirement and another world title

31:24I'm I seriously believe you can do it is it something that you will stay you

31:29think i can retire now I don't know what's happened here is where you can

31:33retire kill you don't gotta run it was like the first question

31:37oh yeah now I seriously think you can win another one and down while you're

31:39gonna stay till you did I think no I mean look I'm not gonna sit here and

31:43listen for their heads

31:44yeah I'm I'm look I'm still reason I'm i'm happy i look back and go man

31:49a lot of work a lot of things with my way over the years you know I really

31:52yeah it had a lot of heat that was my way just a crucial heat early in a

31:55context where you just get that score and then you win or something you know

31:58and it and then at the end of year you look back and got only one by three or

32:01four heat or one heat

32:03and that one heat that I one was the one that was gave me five more heat to that

32:06content you know things like that

32:08yeah but I also find it it's like you know water finds its level and at the

32:14end of the day whatever result you get you either rest on that and you're

32:18stoked with it or if you have a you know I think for anyone going for a world

32:22title if you when you have a loss eat you up and you're like you know what I'm

32:26gonna wipe that thing off my plate next contest that's gonna I'm gonna get rid

32:31of that thing as a team but yeah so inventive and i found sometimes when I

32:35bad results it actually made me going to run that where I did better than I

32:39probably would have had i not had that loss you know and I'm but as far as

32:44world titles go I mean I man lost by heat to I I lost one by heat to Andy

32:52once and lost 1 by e to make 12 a lot of money by heat to draw one and i also i

32:57also had three or four that I one-by-one heat

33:00yeah so what does tones like if that went the other way that would be talking

33:04for 10 with titles had AI had a yeah but things can go your way that much better


33:11yeah it's a yeah yeah and and there's always you always look back on that year

33:17and you'll get what could I look at have done differently or what you know what

33:20happened for that other guy that went really well for him or and you know you

33:25find that there are so many things that go into a years with of results that man

33:30could go a million different ways yeah you just gotta be happy with in the end

33:33you win it but uh so world title i feel like i have the ability

33:39yeah I don't think I would be here competing if I didn't feel I had that

33:44ability i think it's been obvious in the good waves that I've had the results and

33:49the in the worst waves i haven't had the results but I also you know no excuses

33:55I've got announcer plenty of times but I also haven't had the desire to really

33:59just be on my game and I was thinking back on it yesterday actually

34:03how many times i was still so excited to surf like a one-foot piece of crap in

34:08Japan really like you know at the kocontes and manly and their leader said

34:12you know where or in Brazil where the waves are bad

34:15I was like I'm just gonna win so bad and I haven't had that kind of same hunger

34:20and unless the waves are good

34:22um yeah well you know when we had like tofu two years ago or PG even this year

34:25whatever like I just wake up and I'm like give me anything you know that I

34:30want to kill somebody

34:31yeah but it just brings out that excitement and I think in order to win

34:35another world title i would really have to find that again

34:37yeah in all conditions in all conditions in all conditions and just and be super

34:42decisive not be playing around with my board choices and stuff and you know

34:47sometimes i'm i'm so bored by the condition to the waves and then that i

34:51did i need to i don't know i'm trying to challenge myself I'm trying to ride

34:56something that is going to make me feel excited yeah that makes sense yeah it


35:00you know maybe a weird board but we might do something great and certainly

35:02ever enough to make it makes it up make it look different too and not different

35:07yeah and it's not really the way to go about how do you want to and we're gonna

35:11hate like you want to be on the magic board right you know it's beyond similar

35:14to the other guy and I'll surface yet and uh you know I talked to Shane her

35:18and extensively about this last year

35:20mhm and even this year and change and actually coached me a little bit earlier

35:23this year I know why

35:27yeah but I didn't I lost really cute yea it's not his fault that it i just there

35:33yeah I and I fell in a couple here and there so it but I know I talked to Shane

35:39a lot about the alternative equipment he goes you know what man i wish that I

35:42hadn't been so always headed when he was doing his life to god i wish it I had

35:47conformed to what the standard was and surf thrusters guarantee and you know

35:52what he told me that with his from his own mouth and I was like well it's cool

35:56to hear because yeah you wonder if he was always been that stubborn to think

36:00he could have smoked every one single friends and little two-foot ways of the

36:03writing twins and flight Lee kayla has going 200 miles an hour earlier and you

36:07know Pat mulhern on the east coast in and you know getting little barrels and

36:11throwing his tail out and in these little you know B&C rated events and

36:15stuff like the record bar prone and you know certainly there's three events in

36:20the East Coast back in the day

36:21ya never know Shane was on tour that time and I

36:26yeah i mean i was getting off track there but funny enough rabbit told me he

36:30goes you know Pamela learned was my god because Pat Martin would always be

36:33changed on the East Coast you know you get barreled on every any day and that's

36:37what got rebel tunnel

36:38yeah I think they're gonna happen guaranteed wouldn't want a world title

36:42if he starts to thrust yeah i mean Shane was so good his his style and his low

36:47center of gravity was unmatched by anyone and his power is you know he you

36:53guys have a similar bills in legacy that low center of gravity the short stumpy

36:57powerful legs and you know Shane could like almost half his butt down on the

37:01board and just be driving from that position not tired legs out you know

37:04kind of like I mean if there's a guided tour like that now it's michelle borough

37:08yeah just order me but Shane had this classic com can for like not conformed

37:13is calm in control style night is young i was beautiful beautiful and he you

37:21know it's one of the more stylish guys on tour I think and yeah he kind of had

37:24to because a single finished think yeah but i always i just yearn when I was a

37:28kid to see him on a thruster a twin fin did you ever try to did you ever try

37:32cable then I'd he gave me what I never made a board for it you didn't know but

37:36I did for a little while and simple it

37:39yeah kinda feel all right here and there but you'd never could connect anything

37:44with it

37:45yeah so retirement then yeah I look forward to it you do i do I look forward

37:51to it

37:51milani must haha kidding yes and no I mean it's not you have it you know

37:56colonial she loves to travel you don't think when we first started dating she

38:00loved it so much but now it's like it's part of our lives and it's you know all

38:04the places we go we have a lot of friends and family friends people will

38:07stay with you know we look forward to getting back to those places in that way

38:11you know I'd my question for you would be like do you miss that

38:16a little not necessarily having a surf contest every week but like seeing those

38:19people around the world you know I

38:21do i do nothing you can cause I'm not that kind of mean like it

38:25sharan from South Africa like for example you really miss stuff like that

38:29I mean I but bill until maybe travel hate so I'm still traveling about it

38:34I know yeah he's right I was in Japan time for widows in Japan my mind for a

38:39week I media online for a way to get them tallies I'm for like fortune will

38:42stay with you with the chile relleno last year I did yeah and I wish I was

38:48fit in the west apartment having served as we told me its kind of bomb cannot

38:52have a track record he was like ribbon the so-called that was my excuse but

38:56like right at the end the locals a lot we got to see yourself once i like to

39:00put on record that is likely going to make me jump off a cliff to get out

39:05there was freaking bit

39:06it's great to be back in shape yeah it's great to have you on my outcast thank

39:10you so much

39:11well yeah really appreciate it i think i don't think anything you don't write