Surfing, Editing and Sweating!
so let me go on to explain the rest, a flaring east swell hit the coast, which has kept me balls deep in water, 5 am starts with 3 surfs a day, it been an ideal routine, even enough to get me stretching out the odd cramp, Almost touching the toes which is a record I haven't reached since grade 7!while the swell was around you couldn't get me away from Dbah, the old stomping ground, it feels so good to be home!Dbah's an easy choice but a good one none the less!
Along with the east swell the cat dragged in old mates Phil Gallagher and Mitch Rawlins, they came up on the swell Mitch working on his movie and Phil working on getting material for his new magazine 'le boogie'. Mitch landed in L.A recently bound for a contest in Chile, although on landing Mitch found himself pissing blood, that's right, I wouldn't beat around the bush, the kid was pissing blood, long story short, Mitch flew home sorted himself out now reports pissing razor blades, however thats another issue all together. Mitch was saying the bleeding was a result of landing some heavy airs, ribs pushed back into his kidneys causing the bleeding.
Right now it feels like summer, North winds, waves have stopped,although its given me time to focus on another passion of mine, Editing! Ive got a bunch of footage that ive been working with, so that's keeping my mind focused while the waves sort themselves out.