TRAVEL DIARIES: Hawaii with Lil
Arriving in Honolulu feels like arriving at my second home and I’m lucky enough to have my second family who were there to greet me. The Kaleopaa family have a rich surfing history on the South shore and they really do carry the Aloha spirit within them. Kelis has become my Hawaiian sister, and I’m stoked to watch her as she becomes one of the most talented young long boarders in the world. It’s always an honour to stay with her and her family.
Straight off the plane we drove through the busy streets to get home, wax up our logs and paddle out at Queens. It was great seeing the rest of the Waikiki crew, I had missed them so much! We surfed for the rest of the day, traded waves and smiled until the sun went down. I was stoked to be back on Oahu.
Island life consists of lots of surf, eating and surfing some more. I ate the most mouth-watering food at Rainbow Drive Inn and got to taste the jaw dropping Malasadas (a Portuguese doughnut without a hole) at the famous Leonards Bakery. When the surf was bad we would just swim and get pounded by high tide shories. When the surf went super small we ran from Waikiki out to Diamond Head and climbed all the way to the top. The view was amazing! You could see all the breaks along the South shore and it was amazing to see how the swell lines refracted as they hit the reefs along the coastline. It would be a great spot to watch a big swell hit the island.
We were experiencing a heat wave whilst I was there, so before I headed back to Australia to climatise back to Winter, the crew got together and organised a going away party for me at the local Ice skating rink. Lets just say I’ll stick to surfing.
Aloha Lil x